Evolution Of Trends From Salon De Lingerie

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Evolution of trends at Salon de Lingerie January 2009

The Salon de Lingerie in Paris is the first exhibition showing the collections for autumn/winter 2009. Taking place in the massive Porte des Versaille conference centre it attracts exhibitors and buyers from across the globe. This January saw a more subdued event with fewer exhibitors and buyers making the trip. Despite the lower turn out the mood was optimistic and the collections more focussed than in previous years. Jos Berry from Concepts Paris identified the 6 key trends for the season:

• Real corsetry
Structured and seamed pieces were prevalent for the autumn/winter 09. Satin and retro constructions were seen in the Der Kommisar and Sonia Rykel collections. There is more and more coverage over the torso with an increase in teddies and bodies. Jolidon combines the all in one style with seductive fabrics and the traditional colours of black and red. Suspender belts have followed this trend by becoming wider and more cinch-like in design.

The trend of real corsetry reflects the importance of tradition and heritage in lingerie while the new technology has made the designs more practical to wear in busy modern day life.

• Funky Couture
Lace is major trend with guipure embroidery in combination with satin, targeted at younger women. Made by Niki is a perfect example of the use of traditional look and fit with modern colour combination. Marjolaine also reflects this in their silk nightwear combining lime green and cerise pink.

This funky new design has also spread to maternity wear, companies such as Hot Milk! and Agnes et Ses Princes use trimmings and bold printed fabrics to ensure femininity in these function pieces.

• Flowers with a difference
Flowers are an enduring staple in lingerie design. English roses were used beautifully by Odille and Karen Millen, printed on satin with contrasting ribbons, bows or ruffles.
Printed lingerie used organic floral development with soft colour contrasts, grey being used heavily in lavender and smoky tones.

• Romantic naturals
Companies such as Calida and Hanro have moved back to their roots using natural cotton in their collections. The subdued colours available in cottons give a soft romantic palette with soft greys and beiges. Designers have taken classic designs and used handkerchief weaves and chunky lace detailing to give a contemporary edge.

Streetwear has been a notable influence using layering and adding knitted sweaters and garments have been re-proportioned to be more risqué while utilising old fashioned pointelle knits.

There has been an increased use of organic and biodegrable cottons but not at the expense of femininity. An extension of the use of cotton has been the spread of the preppy American college look epitomised by Venus et Jules.

• La Belle Epoque
La Belle Epoque celebrates the eccentricity at this seasons show. The rich opulent colours combined with the seductive silky textures evoke an Art Nouveau drawing room. There has also been a strong influence of Liberty prints further adding to the richness of the collections. Improvements in technology allow designers to break the rules and move away from the traditional structure of pieces. Valery produced a beautiful collection incorporating a 2 way stretch taffeta in opulent colours.

• Geometric
Geometric prints and design have made a steady impact over the past few year but they finally appear to be coming into their own. The innovative designs from Marlies Dekkers are clearly influencing the mainstream lingerie. Straps that cross at the back and additional straps across the décolletage and around the neck add sexiness through strong definite lines.

The improvement in the quality of printing geometric patterns has helped increase the popularity. The deep inky colours of the season benefit from the clear lines in the graphic designs.

Each year the Salon de Lingerie provides the focus of the next seasons lingerie trends and with the continuing innovation in fabrics and designs it will remain the most important event for the industry year after year.